Ready to build a raised garden bed? These free plans for beginners offer several designs in various shapes, sizes, and heights to suit a variety of growing spaces.
For more information on choosing lumber, see The Best Wood for Raised Garden Beds to help make your selections.
Tips for Building Raised Beds
Raised garden beds are an excellent option for creating a dedicated growing space in your yard. Traditionally, they are used for growing vegetables and herbs, but they are also fine for other small plants including ornamental annuals and perennials, and some shrubs and vines.
The big advantage to growing in raised beds is the control you have over the soil. With a designated space, you can put your best compost and soil right where you need it so the plants get all that goodness without worries about erosion.
Taller raised beds offer better accessibility without bending or kneeling.
Plus, the wood structure makes it easier to add things like frost cloths (floating row covers), protective screens, or polytunnel tops to protect crops from pests and extend the growing season.
Wood Choices
The number one question people ask is, what type of wood should I use for my raised beds?
I have written about the best wood choices here which provides more detail.
Bottom line, it will depend on your budget, how sustainable or long-lasting you want it to be, and what is available locally.
Years ago, pressure-treated (PT) wood was not considered food-safe so we avoid repurposing older wood or things like railway ties that are now considered unsafe.
If you’re in a termite-free zone, the best low-cost option may be basic, untreated pine boards or a similar softwood available in your region. Where I live, thick plain pine boards last approximately 10 years before it need replacing.
If the weather is harsh, a long-lasting wood like cedar or hemlock may be the way to go.
Lumber Sizes
It gets confusing for new woodworkers because the nominal names for lumber sizes are different than the actual dimensions of the wood.
This chart shows the standards (nominal and actual dimensions) for many softwood lumber pieces.
In the plans, I have used the nominal names noting any exact cuts you will need.
For example, if the board is a 2×4 and the required length is 6-feet, I have listed the cut length as 2x4x6. The actual dimensions are 1.4×3.5×6-feet. You just need to cut it to the length listed in the Cut List.
Always double-check the measurements of all of your wood pieces before you build. I’ve been surprised a few times to find either the width was not standard or some pieces in the lot had significant variations in length. You’ll also want board ends to be cut square so the corners form nice joins. And your carpenter’s level is essential to be sure your raised beds are level on the ground.
And, as with any build, double check the plans for accuracy.
Tools & Materials
In addition to the materials listed for each plan, you will need some basic tools and supplies.
- Saw – preferably a compound miter saw if you want to finish your beds with mitered tops.
- Measuring tape
- Cordless drill, pilot hole bits and countersink bit
#8 screws require a 7/64″ drill bit for the pilot holes and a 3/8″ countersink bit. - Cordless electric screwdriver (optional) – I use my drill for this
- Carpenter’s Level (long one)
- Carpenter’s Square
- Safety gear including protective glasses, gloves, ear protectors
- Paint or wood stain (optional)
Choosing a Plan
Before you choose the style you want, consider some of these logistics.
Location | Choose a site with the right amount of sun (full, part, shade) for what you intend to grow. Also ensure there is good drainage (that water does not collect or pool there) and you have access to a water hose or rain barrel if you will be hand-watering your plants.
Ease of Access | The entire raised bed should be easy to access. Be sure you’ll be able to reach all parts of it and have room around the exterior to stand or kneel, depending on the height.
Soil | Is your ground soil healthy? Or, are you using raised beds to create a better growing space above ground? Build higher if the existing soil is a problem.
Height | I build most of my raised beds quite tall because I like how the tall sides offer some shade in the hot summer and protection when I’m over-wintering crops. Plus, it’s easier on the back.
But, a deeper beds means you’ll need more soil to fill it. And, they will need good quality compost replenished each year.
Plants | What do you want to grow? How much space (including root depth) will they need?
Many annual flowers and vegetables have fairly shallow roots and a bed approximately 8 to 10-inches tall is fine.
If you plant to grow perennial shrubs or vines with deeper roots, you may want to double or triple the height of the raised bed to allow more root room—if you can manage adding that much more soil.
Critters | If you have an issue with critters like voles that dig underground, consider choosing a deeper style of raised bed and lining the base with hardware cloth.
Building Tips
Prepare your site before building. You want it level and clear of grass and weeds.
For assembly, it is easiest to construct the two long sides of the rectangular raised beds first and then attach the short side boards.
Most of these plans use corner posts and middle vertical supports. I drew the plans giving these extra length so they can be buried in the ground to give the box extra stability. I’m always ambivalent about this—it’s probably not necessary in every instance. If you don’t want this, just make the corner and support pieces the same length as your raised bed is tall so the whole unit will sit on the ground.
Adapting the Plans for Different Size Lumber
If you are using a different lumber size for the (horizontal) side boards than shown in the plans, be sure to adapt the plan. The long horizontal boards are placed beyond the corner posts the distance equal to one-board width. For example, if a board is 1.5-inches thick, it will be placed 1.5-inches beyond each of its corner posts. If your boards are a different thickness, use your measurement instead.
Paint or Stain
If you intend to paint or stain your raised bed, it is often easier to do this before assembly and just do touch-ups after the build.
Free Building Plans
Free Plans
1 Basic Raised Bed
2 Square Raised Bed
3 Tall Raised Bed With Optional Mitered Top
4 Raised Garden Bed with Built-in Privacy Wall
1Basic Raised Bed
6×3-Foot Raised Bed
Footprint is 72×39-inches
Materials
Wood
(3) 2x10x6 (sides)
(1) 4x4x4 (corner posts)
(1) 2x4x2 (middle supports)
Hardware
(30) 2.5-inch #8 deck screws
Cut List
(2) 2x10x6 long sides (actual 1.5×9.25×72″)
(2) 2x10x3 short sides (actual 1.5×9.25×36″)
(4) 4x4x1 corner posts (actual 3.5×3.5×12″)
(2) 2x4x1 middle supports (actual 1.5×3.5×12″)
8×4-Foot Raised Bed
Footprint is 96×51-inches
Materials
Wood
(3) 2x10x8 (sides)
(1) 4x4x4 (corner posts)
(1) 2x4x2 (middle supports)
Hardware
(30) 2.5-inch #8 deck screws
Cut List
(2) 2x10x8 long sides (actual 1.5×9.25×96″)
(2) 2x10x3 short sides (actual 1.5×9.25×48″)
(4) 4x4x1 corner posts (actual 3.5×3.5×12″)
(2) 2x4x1 middle supports (actual 1.5×3.5×12″)
Assembly Tips
Build the two long sides of the raised bed first. Each of the long boards should extend 1.5-inches (one board width) beyond each corner post. The image here shows another view of this. Align the top edge of the long board with the top edge of each post (4×4) and the middle support pieces (2x4s).
Use three deck screws at each join, first predrilling holes with a 7/64″ drill bit. For a nicer look, space them out evenly in a line, keeping the top and bottom screws at least an inch from board edges and use a 3/8″ countersink bit.
Add side boards to complete raised bed.
Bury legs in soil so bottom of sides are at ground level.
2Square Raised Bed
3×3-Foot Raised Bed
Footprint is 36.75×36.75-inches
Materials
Wood
(2) 1x8x6 (sides)
(1) 2x4x4 (corner posts)
Hardware
(24) 1.25-inch #8 deck screws
Cut List
(4) 1x8x3 sides (actual .75×7.25×36″)
(4) 2x4x1 corner posts (actual 1.5×3.5×12″)
4×4-Foot Raised Bed
Footprint is 48.75×48.75-inches
Materials
Wood
(2) 1x8x8 (sides)
(1) 2x4x4 (corner posts)
Hardware
(24) 1.25-inch #8 deck screws
Cut List
(4) 1x8x4 sides (actual .75×7.25×48″)
(4) 2x4x1 corner posts (actual 1.5×3.5×12″)
Assembly Tips
Create four sides as shown in the diagram (above). The side board should be placed .75-inch (one board width) beyond the edge of the 2×4.
Predrill screw holes with a 7/64″ drill bit. For a finished look, countersink the screws with a 3/8″ countersink bit.
Join the four sections to form a square raised bed. Use your carpenter’s square to confirm everything is just right.
Bury legs in soil so bottom of sides are at ground level.
3Tall Raised Bed With Optional Mitered Top
6×3-Foot Raised Bed
Materials
Wood
(6) 2x10x6 (sides)
(1) 4x4x8 (corner posts)
(1) 2x4x4 (middle supports)
(3) 1x8x8 (top mitered rails)
Hardware
(60) 2.5-inch #8 deck screws
(20) 1.25-inch #8 deck screws
Cut List
(4) 2x10x6 long sides (actual 1.5×9.25×72″)
(4) 2x10x3 short sides (actual 1.5×9.25×36″)
(4) 4x4x2 corner posts (actual 3.5×3.5×24″)
(2) 2x4x2 middle supports (actual 1.5×3.5×24″)
DO NOT CUT MITERED BOARDS UNTIL YOUR BOX IS BUILT AND YOU CAN CHECK EXACT MEASUREMENTS NEEDED
(2) 1x8x76.5-inches long mitered rails (actual .75×7.25×76.5″)
Ends cut at 45-degrees
(2) 1x8x43.5-inches short mitered rails (actual .75×7.25×43.5″)
Ends cut at 45-degrees
8×4-Foot Raised Bed
Materials
Wood
(6) 2x10x8 (sides)
(1) 4x4x8 (corner posts)
(1) 2x4x8 (middle supports)
(3) 1x8x8 (top mitered rails)
Hardware
(60) 2.5-inch #8 deck screws
(20) 1.25-inch #8 deck screws
Cut List
(4) 2x10x8 long sides (actual 1.5×9.25×96″)
(4) 2x10x4 short sides (actual 1.5×9.25×48″)
(4) 4x4x2 corner posts (actual 3.5×3.5×24″)
(4) 2x4x2 middle supports (actual 1.5×3.5×24″) – this plan has two middle supports on each long side
DO NOT CUT MITERED BOARDS UNTIL YOUR BOX IS BUILT AND YOU CAN CHECK EXACT MEASUREMENTS NEEDED
(2) 1x8x100.5-inches long mitered rails (actual .75×7.25×100.5″)
Ends cut at 45-degrees
(2) 1x8x55.5-inches short mitered rails (actual .75×7.25×55.5″)
Ends cut at 45-degrees
Assembly Tips
Build the two long sides of the raised bed first. Each of the long boards should extend 1.5-inches (one board width) beyond each corner post.
Use three 2.5-inch deck screws for each join. Predrill screw holes with a 7/64″ drill bit. For a finished look, countersink the screws with a 3/8″ countersink bit. Space your screws in a line, even distances apart. It’s details like this that make it look nice.
With long sides assembled, you’re ready to add the side boards.
Double-check measurements before creating (optional) mitered top rails—you may need longer or shorter pieces depending on the finished size of your box.
The inside edge of the long rails should align with the inside edge of the corner posts. The estimated measures given in the Cut List are the longest board edges.
Bury legs in soil so bottom of sides is at ground level.
4Raised Bed With Built in Privacy Wall
I built this raised bed for my own garden to provide container growing space and solve a privacy issue.
The complete instructions are here: DIY Raised Garden Bed With Built-in Privacy Wall.
5Tall Raised Bed for Containers & Bins
Instead of filling this one with soil, I designed it to hold containers. It’s great for potted flowers or vegetables. It’s also the right size to hold plastic bins used either for winter sowing or hardening off seedlings in spring.
The complete instructions are here: DIY Tall Raised Bed for Containers & Bins.
Resources
Free Online Soil Calculator Tool
Estimate how much you need and what it will cost.
- Garden beds
- Raised beds
- Window boxes
- Flower pots or urns
- Soil
- Potting mix
- Mulch
- Compost
Good luck with your build and happy growing,
~Melissa the Empress of Dirt ♛