If you are growing fruit trees that are hardy or semi-hardy outdoors in containers in a cold climate, this shows how to keep them safe during the winter and ready to grow again in spring.
For planting help, When is it too late to plant trees in fall? will get you started.
How to Overwinter Potted Trees
If your potted tree is not hardy enough for winters outdoors, it will need to be overwintered in an insulated shed or garage.
The example I’m using here is a potted fig tree, but the steps are essentially the same for any deciduous tree growing in a container that can tolerate temperatures down to or near freezing—but no lower.
- Overwintering a potted fig tree is a simple process that requires a bit of work in the fall before first frost, and then again in the spring before last frost.
- You will need a winter storage space like a garage where (ideally) the temperature stays between 32 to 50°F (0-10°C).
- Many fig trees are hardy (can survive year round outdoors) in gardening zones 7 to 11. With these overwintering tips, you can keep them thriving in zones as low as 4.
Want to buy a fig tree? Naturehills.com has a few options
(US lower 48 shipping)
When I first got my fig trees (Chicago Hardy fig, shipped as a bare root stem, 6″ long including the roots, by mail order) at the end of their first growing season, I could not find any information about how to protect them during the winter months.
Since then I’ve experimented and received advice and this is what works for me here in Ontario, Canada (zone 6).
- Overwintering tells the tree to nap for the winter, protected from freezing temperatures and light.
- When last frost approaches in the spring, you take steps to ‘wake it up’ again, to be ready for a new growing season.
- If you are growing your fig tree in a container, you’ll want to remove the tree from the container every second year and slightly prune the roots to keep it healthy in the pot. There is more information on this below.
Related: How to overwinter geraniums (as houseplants or in cold storage).
1Year One
In the fall, a few weeks before first frost
- Ease off on watering as the weather gets cooler and let the tree experience some dips in temperature including light frosts.
- Cooler temperatures makes the sap drop low in the tree and the leaves will yellow and start falling off (this is good).
- Right before storing the tree, remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches and spray tree with dormant oil or insecticidal soap (more on this, below) to discourage pests.
Insecticidal Soap
Before bringing plants indoors or storing them for the winter, it is wise to treat them with an insecticidal soap made specifically for this purpose.
Earth-tone Insecticidal Soap for organic gardening controls aphids, lace bugs, mites, grasshoppers, scale, earwigs, whiteflies and more.
I previously tried homemade recipes but since learned that products like dish soap are not effective for this purpose. A good commercial spray targets specific problems.
- When frosts are near, move the container to a garage. The ideal temperature range is 32 to 50°F (0-10°C).
- Keep the plant in darkness. I place a heavy duty garbage bag over mine that still allows air flow but blocks light.
- Some people don’t water them at all. I water mine very lightly every 6 weeks or so when it feels dry to my finger (at 1-inch deep). I set a reminder on my phone, otherwise I forget.
TIP: A base with wheels (plant trolley) makes this a lot easier!
In the spring, a few weeks before last frost
- Start watering the plant again and gradually reintroduce it to sunlight.
- Two weeks or so before last frost, place the tree outside, ideally in a warm spot. I put mine next to an exterior brick wall with southern exposure. You may need to move it back and forth daily, inside and out, depending on the weather.
- If you’re still having frosty nights, bring the tree inside at night or cover it with heavy row covers or frost cloths.
- Within a few weeks the tree will wake up and you will see new growth, sprouts, and leaves.
2Year Two
Potted fig trees need a little bit of ‘root pruning’ approximately every two years if they are growing well.
In the fall, a few weeks before first frost
- Remove the tree from the pot, and cut back approximately one-third to one-half the roots to a healthy ball.
- Next, you can either repot the plant in fresh potting mix or wrap the root ball in a plastic bag.
- Keep the tree in a cool dark place for the winter (ideal temperature range is 0-10°C / 32 to 50° F ).
- Never let the soil dry out. Check on it routinely and water as needed.
A few weeks before last frost in the spring
- Re-pot the tree in fresh potting soil if needed (2 parts soil-less mix to 1 part compost, plus granular organic fertilizer)
- Water lightly. Prune away any dead branches.
- Same steps each year: gradually reintroduce tree to light and outdoor conditions after risk of frost has passed.
Related: The Most Important Fall Garden Tasks.
3Year Three
Same as Year One. Root prune again in Year Four if needed to prevent roots from crowding.
Frequently Asked Questions
When the leaves start to drop, it’s time to transition your tree to life indoors, or start preparing it for winter storage.
~Melissa the Empress of Dirt ♛
How to Overwinter Potted Trees in a Cold Climate
Equipment
Supplies & Materials
- 1 Tree in a Container
Instructions
Fall and Winter
- In the fall, a few weeks before first frost ease off watering and let the tree experience some dips in temperature including light frosts. Leaves should yellow and fall off.
- Right before storing the tree, spray it with dormant oil. This will kill off any pests.
- When frosts are near, move the container to a garage (ideal temperature range is 0-10°C / 32 to 50° F).
- Keep the plant in darkness (I put a big bag over mine).
- Some people don’t water them at all. I water mine very lightly every 6 weeks or so if the soil is really dry (a sign it needs new soil).
Spring
- A few weeks before last frost, start watering the plant again and gradually reintroduce it to sunlight.
- Two weeks or so before last frost, place the tree outside, ideally in a warm spot. I put mine next to an exterior brick wall with southern exposure.
- If you’re still having frosty nights, bring the tree inside at night or cover it with heavy row covers or frost cloths.
- Within a few weeks you will see new growth, sprouts, and leaves.
Notes
https://empressofdirt.net/what-is-overwintering/
PATRICIA MOSSER says
Can’t wait to learn more from you.
Anne Kubu says
I have a potted fig, I think a Chicago that I have had for 3 summers. I repotted 2 years ago in the spring and it seemed to affect the grown. This summer it gave me 21 figs which impressed me since it only has a main stem with two branches. I was thinking of repotting soon and having read your directions I think it might be time. Any thoughts?
Anne
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Anne,
That’s a lot of figs!
You didn’t mention your reason for repotting. Have you examined the roots–are they getting too big for the pot? Or is there another reason? If root space is an issue there are two options. You can up-pot and move the tree to a larger container. Or, you can prune the roots (remove 1/3 or less) and use the same container. With that much fruit production, you’ll need to provide good nutrition through the soil as well.
Also, (this part is not fun) sometimes when a plant is that productive, it can be a swan song. It may either die off or really slow down for some time until it can gather more resources for future fruiting. I’ve had this happen a few times. In the future, you may be able to prevent the problem by selectively removing some of the fruit when it is forming to reduce the stress on the tree.
Good luck with your fig tree!
Will Best says
Thanks, “Empress,” for the fig tree info. My dad, a milkman in Pgh, used to overwinter fig trees his Italian customers gave him. In central KS, our climate is more extreme with very hot summers (10-20 days above 100, and last year a -13 f. winter range, but generally, warmer than the North East)
We do have an ideal place for the four year-old potted fig trees in a garage area that is insulated. We will try your method instead of the burying option that some use. Thanks, again.
Nathan Turoff says
Thanks for your clear and useful information.
Ive not seen anyone address the idea of bringing a potted fig indoors as a houseplant in winter.
In its native environment, it would not be subjected to months of cool darkness–why is that a benefit here?
My tree was taken as a cutting this spring and has thrived beautifully–now about four feet tall. I dont know the variety other than to say the parent produces purple figs 1x/season.
Cilla says
I have a potted fig. I produced figs very well this year but they have yet to ripen. Will these fall off, will I need to pull them off, or are they next year’s breba crop? This is the Chicago Hardy fig. I am in Zone 6a. Thank you so much!
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Cilla,
I’ve had that happen a few times. They eventually dry out at the stems and drop off. I’ve never seen them overwinter and continue growing or ripening. Best wishes,
Donna says
Hello and thank you for this information.
I am in Montreal where it gets very cold during the winter. I have a potted ornamental cherry tree that I need to winter. I am thinking of wintering it in our unheated shed, no light, no insulation. If I wrap the pot and try to keep the roots from freezing, will this suffice? Any other advice for me?
Thank you!
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Donna, Yes, it’s all about preventing the roots from icing or freezing. Also, the container should not be ceramic or some other breakable material otherwise you risk it cracking. A bunch of old blankets wrapped a good 6 inches thick all around (top, bottom, sides, with tree sticking out) should do the trick.
donna says
thank you!
Sandra Rhoades says
Thank you for the instructions on over-wintering a fig tree. This is my first year owning one. The temps are expected to dip into the lower 40’s here in New York, which is not typical in September. I expect it will warm up again so I am not certain if I should bring my tree in now. Plus I have unripe fruit on the tree. I would appreciate any advice.
Thanks.
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Sandra,
If the leaves are starting to drop, it’s time to store it for the winter.
When having an early frost or freeze that will be followed by warmer weather, just insulate the pot for the night with blankets or straw or whatever to prevent the roots from freezing. Remove when it’s over 40F during the day.
Matt G says
I am thinking of building a cold frame with clear plastic to store my potted figs in over the winter, zone 6.
Do you think this will be safe? Should I cover them in burlap to prevent premature budding?
I was thinking of adding a heat pad or light to come on when the temperature dropped below 30F but am worried it may get too hot. I am adding vents to open when it gets above 70F and close at 40F
Melissa J. Will says
You didn’t mention how hardy your fig trees in relation to your zone but in general, to overwinter in pots, the goal is to keep the roots and soil from freezing.
In a cold climate this means insulating the pot and keeping ice water from getting in. The clear plastic wouldn’t really do anything for temperature. And a heat pad or light is unlikely to add warmth where you want it. If you have access, use straw bales for stuffing and wrap in burlap. Or blankets. Just be sure to provide air circulation and water during warm spells. And keep the roots from freezing. 🙂
Aimee says
When is it safe (how old) to ground plant a potted tree…in my case, crape myrtles?
Melissa J. Will says
This explains timing for that: https://empressofdirt.net/fall-too-late-plant-trees/
Paul Guerette says
in the winter care of potted fig trees why do you insist on “Keep the plant in darkness (I put a big bag over mine).” I question the darkness requirement. I wish to keep mine in a heated shed with windows on east and south side where temperature will be held at 2 – 5 degrees C. Do i have to wrap them? If the trees were grown in the ground outside for the winter in zone 6 – 8 they would not require to be wrapped.
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Paul,
It’s really hard to compare a tree growing in the ground to one in the unnatural state of growing in a pot. Growing in nature offers lots of checks and balances that container gardening does not.
The pot has to be protected in our winters to avoid freezing the roots, which would otherwise be happy deep in the ground.
In winter storage, I slip a bag over mine because our garage has windows and gets drafty. Some winters it occasionally gets quite warm, triggering buds and leaves (if uncovered), which will then be lost when temperatures drop again. To prevent this, I encourage full dormancy.
I do not ‘wrap’ the trees though: I leave room for air flow just using a large loose bag. Depending on humidity in storage, wrapping could cause mold.
There are lots of ways to do this and choices will depend on your climate and storage space.
Good questions! I hope this helps.
Kyle says
Thanks for this great information. What type or material of bag do you use to cover the tree?
Melissa J. Will says
I use large trash bags.