If you are growing semi-hardy or tropical trees in containers in a cold climate, this shows how to keep them safe during the winter and ready to grow again in spring.
For planting help, When is it too late to plant trees in fall? will get you started.
How to Overwinter Potted Trees
The example I’m using here is a potted fig tree, but the steps are essentially the same for any deciduous tree growing in a container.
- Overwintering a potted fig tree is a simple process that requires a bit of work in the fall before first frost, and then again in the spring before last frost.
- You will need a winter storage space like a garage where (ideally) the temperature stays between 0-10°C / 32 to 50° F.
- Many fig trees are hardy (can survive year round outdoors) in gardening zones 7 to 11. With these overwintering tips, you can keep them thriving in zones as low as 4.
When I first got my fig trees (Chicago Hardy fig, 6″ long including the roots, by mail order) at the end of their first growing season, I could not find any information about how to protect them during the winter months.
Since then I’ve experimented and received advice and this is what works for me here in Ontario, Canada (zone 6).
- Overwintering tells the tree to nap for the winter, protected from freezing temperatures and light.
- When last frost approaches in the spring, you take steps to ‘wake it up’ again, to be ready for a new growing season.
- If you are growing your fig tree in a container, you’ll want to remove the tree from the container every second year and prune the roots. This keeps the tree healthy and encourages fruiting and growth.
Related: How to overwinter geraniums (as houseplants or in cold storage).
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Year One
In the fall, a few weeks before first frost
- Ease off on watering as the weather gets cooler and let the tree experience some dips in temperature including light frosts.
- Cooler temperatures makes the sap drop low in the tree and the leaves will yellow and start falling off (this is good).
- Right before storing the tree, spray it with dormant oil. This will kill off any pests.
- When frosts are near, move the container to a garage (ideal temperature range is 0-10°C / 32 to 50° F).
- Keep the plant in darkness (I put a big bag over mine).
- Some people don’t water them at all. I water mine very lightly every 6 weeks or so if the soil is really dry (a sign it needs new soil).
TIP: A base with wheels (plant trolley) makes this a lot easier!
In the spring, a few weeks before last frost
- Start watering the plant again and gradually reintroduce it to sunlight.
- Two weeks or so before last frost, place the tree outside, ideally in a warm spot. I put mine next to an exterior brick wall with southern exposure.
- If you’re still having frosty nights, bring the tree inside at night or cover it with heavy row covers or frost cloths.
- Within a few weeks you will see new growth, sprouts, and leaves.
Year Two
Potted fig trees need ‘root pruning’ approximately every two years if they are growing well.
In the fall, a few weeks before first frost
- Remove the tree from the pot, and cut back approximately half the roots to a healthy ball.
- Wrap the root ball in a plastic bag and keep the tree in a cool dark place for the winter (ideal temperature range is 0-10°C / 32 to 50° F ).
- If you’re smart, you’ll have new potting soil, compost, and organic fertilizer all ready for re-potting in the spring.UPDATE: I have also repotted my trees right after fall root pruning and they did fine if done 6 weeks before garage storage so the roots could reestablish before winter dormancy.
A few weeks before last frost in the spring
- Re-pot the tree in fresh potting soil (2 parts soil-less mix to 1 part compost, plus granular organic fertilizer)
- Water lightly. Prune away any dead branches.
- Gradually reintroduce the tree to light.
- Two weeks or so before last frost, place the tree outside, ideally in a warm spot. I put mine next to an exterior brick wall with southern exposure.
- If you’re still having frosty nights, bring the tree inside at night or cover it with heavy row covers or frost cloths.
Within a few weeks you will see new growth, sprouts, and leaves.
Related: The Most Important Fall Garden Tasks.
Year Three
Same as Year One. Root prune again in Year Four.
Insecticidal Soap
Before bringing plants indoors or storing them for the winter, it is wise to treat them with an insecticidal soap made specifically for this purpose.
Earth-tone Insecticidal Soap for organic gardening controls aphids, lace bugs, mites, grasshoppers, scale, earwigs, whiteflies and more.
I previously tried homemade recipes but since learned that products like dish soap are not effective for this purpose. A good commercial spray targets specific problems.
Frequently Asked Questions
1 When should I bring my fig tree indoors?
When the leaves start to drop, it’s time to transition your tree to life indoors, or start preparing it for winter storage.
~Melissa the Empress of Dirt ♛
Kathy says
I don’t have a garage or storage area for my potted patio trees. I have several Japanese maples, Sambuca and Mimosa all growing in containers in my Zone 7. In fall, I lift the containers into large plastic storage boxes and fill the boxes — covering to the top edges of the container and over the soil with mulch. I store the boxes outside in a sunny area. I don’t water all winter. In spring I take the containers out of their storage boxes and dump the mulch in my gardens. The first year I did this I was surprised to find the mulch around the containers and the plant container itself were warm, which meant the roots had been protected from freezing.
Melissa J. Will says
Glad it worked! I find I have to monitor each year depending on temperatures and humidity. Some years storage (indoor or outdoor) is easy, other times it’s a struggle due to extremes.
Carol Edwards says
Thank you so much for this info! I am also in zone 6 and planted a fig last year. Covered it well over winter. Sadly, I t didn’t wake up until August, and all new growth came from the base. I’ve thought about potting it, and I guess I better decide soon. Can you tell me how big your tree and pot are? Maybe a photo? I have no idea what to use. And they don’t sell figs here so I’d love to be successful in this adventure. Thanks for your help! And thanks for all your great ideas!! Love your site.
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Carol,
I added a photo of my fig trees. At that time they were in 12-inch plastic pots. They are Chicago figs, hardy to zone 5. Some other figs are not as cold-tolerant. If yours are sending up growth from the base, it can be a sign they are not content in their current location so it sounds like a good opportunity to pot them.
Becky says
Love this post, it’s got me enthused to try a fig! Where would I find ultrafine canola oil? I don’t think I’ve ever heard of this. Thank you!
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Becky, Check for any light cooking oil at your local grocer. The idea is to use something that is not too heavy for the plants.
Anthony says
I’m in Zone 4B and have a young fig tree that I stored indoors in its first winter when it was literally just two leaves, but it sprouted up great this summer. It’s not too big for indoor storage, and if that’s recommended I can do so again this winter. But eventually it will get too big for indoors, and my garage isn’t heated. Would covering the tree with old heavy blankets in the garage and wrapping the pot with plant heat mats be advised? Do I need to build some sort of insulated enclosure in the garage? Would love any recommendations. Thanks!
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Anthony, It depends on how hardy the fig tree is. If you know the cold hardiness, that will guide your decisions. Basically, you just don’t want it exposed to ice and freezing. Often a thick blanket around the pot and a trash bag over top is enough while stored in a unheated garage. You never want the soil to dry out but neither do you want warmth or growing: this is the time for dormancy.
Anthony says
Thank you!
Roseann Caruso says
My potted fig tree has figs which don’t seem to be ripening. I’m in Zone 5. I water and fertilize. Can you help?
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Roseann, Sometimes fertlizer can be too high in nitrogen and cause leafy growth at the expense of fruit and ripening. Warmth and light could also be factors: does the plant get enough? This article goes over basic care: https://www.logees.com/howtogrowandfruitfigs It may help you troubleshoot the problem.
Marci says
Hi there! Thanks for the tips on overwintering fig trees. I just got one this year and am wondering how I might do this in a garage that isn’t closed to the elements completely (air and water can still enter, though it’s dark and not windy). Also, when talking about pruning into a “healthy ball”, is there a particular way to prune that is best? Should the roots be tight, loose, etc.?
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Marci,
I wish I had a root pruning image to show you. I just trim back until there’s a nice tight ball that is slightly bigger than the palm of my hand. This root size will vary of course depending on the size of the tree. The good news is, the plant is forgiving, so you’re unlikely to harm anything by moderately trimming the roots.
For winter protection, consider standing a protective barrier around the tree to protect. It’s moisture, ice, and wind that can harm it in storage.
Catherine says
Went a little crazy this year and added three fig trees to my collection of trees. The approaching winter already has me on eggshells!
Melissa J. Will says
If you know the names, you’re all set. Depending on where you live, they may be fine outdoors. Otherwise may require some overwintering TLC. Good luck!