How to Overwinter Potted Fruit Trees

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If you are growing fruit trees that are hardy or semi-hardy outdoors in containers in a cold climate, this shows how to keep them safe during the winter and ready to grow again in spring.

How To Bring Plants Indoors For The Winter shares how to prepare houseplants, tender perennials, and long-living annuals for life indoors after spending the summer outside.

How to Overwinter Potted Trees

If your potted tree is not hardy enough for winters outdoors, it will need to be overwintered somewhere like an insulated shed or garage.

Overwintering fruit trees in pots is a good low-maintenance way to keep your trees safe during the cold months.

These instructions are for hardy or semi-hardy trees not tropical ones like lemon or oranges which may need to be moved indoors to a sunny location for the winter.

The example I’m using here is a potted, hardy fig tree, but the steps are essentially the same for any deciduous tree growing in a container that can tolerate temperatures down to or near freezing—but no lower.

Overwintering a potted fig tree is a simple process that requires a bit of work in the fall before first frost, and then again in the spring before last frost.
You will need a winter storage space like a garage where (ideally) the temperature stays between 32 to 50°F (0-10°C).
You might also have the right conditions for “heeling in” where the container is buried in the ground and mulched over to insulate it from the cold.
Many fig trees are hardy (can survive year-round outdoors) in gardening zones 7 to 11. With these overwintering tips, you can keep them thriving in zones as low as 4.

When I first got my fig trees (Chicago Hardy fig, shipped as a bare root stem, 6″ long including the roots, by mail order) at the end of their first growing season, I could not find any information about how to protect them during the winter months.

Since then I’ve experimented and received advice and this is what works for me here in Ontario, Canada (zone 6).

Overwintering tells the tree to nap for the winter, protected from freezing temperatures and light.
When last frost approaches in the spring, you take steps to ‘wake it up’ again, to be ready for a new growing season.
If you are growing your fig tree in a container, you’ll want to remove the tree from the container every second year and slightly prune the roots to keep it healthy in the pot. There is more information on this below.

Chicago fig trees growing in 12-inch plastic pots.

1Year One

In the fall, a few weeks before first frost

Ease off on watering as the weather gets cooler and let the tree experience some dips in temperature including light frosts.
Cooler temperatures makes the sap drop low in the tree and the leaves will yellow and start falling off (this is good).
Right before storing the tree, remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches and spray tree with dormant oil or insecticidal soap (more on this, below) to discourage pests.

Insecticidal Soap

Before bringing plants indoors or storing them for the winter, it is wise to treat them with an insecticidal soap made specifically for this purpose.

Earth-tone Insecticidal Soap for organic gardening controls aphids, lace bugs, mites, grasshoppers, scale, earwigs, whiteflies and more.

I previously tried homemade recipes but since learned that products like dish soap are not effective for this purpose. A good commercial spray targets specific problems.

When frosts are near, move the container to a garage. The ideal temperature range is 32 to 50°F (0-10°C). You could also keep them in an unheated greenhouse if you can prevent the roots from freezing.
Keep the plant in darkness. I place a heavy-duty garbage bag over mine that still allows air flow but blocks light.
Some people don’t water them at all. I water mine very lightly every 6 weeks or so when it feels dry to my finger (at 1-inch deep). I set a reminder on my phone, otherwise I forget.

Tip: Use a Plant Trolley

A plant trolley (basically a board with wheels) will make things a lot easier!

Make sure you choose one designed for the weight and size of your container.

In the spring, a few weeks before last frost

Start watering the plant again and gradually reintroduce it to sunlight.
Two weeks or so before last frost, place the tree outside, ideally in a warm spot. I put mine next to an exterior brick wall with southern exposure. You may need to move it back and forth daily, inside and out, depending on the weather.
If you’re still having frosty nights, bring the tree inside at night or cover it with heavy row covers or frost cloths.
Within a few weeks the tree will wake up and you will see new growth, sprouts, and leaves.

2Year Two

Potted fig trees need a little bit of ‘root pruning’ approximately every two years if they are growing well.

In the fall, a few weeks before first frost

Remove the tree from the pot and cut back approximately one-third to one-half the roots to a healthy ball.
Next, you can either repot the plant in fresh potting mix or wrap the root ball in a plastic bag.
Keep the tree in a cool dark place for the winter (ideal temperature range is 0-10°C / 32 to 50° F ).
Never let the soil dry out. Check on it routinely and water as needed.

A few weeks before last frost in the spring

Re-pot the tree in fresh potting soil if needed (2 parts soil-less mix to 1 part compost, plus granular organic fertilizer)
Water lightly. Prune away any dead branches.
Same steps each year: gradually reintroduce tree to light and outdoor conditions after risk of frost has passed.

3Year Three

Same as Year One. Root prune again in Year Four if needed to prevent roots from crowding.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I bring my potted tree indoors?

Potted tress that need protection over the winter should be transitioned to their winter storage spot when the leaves start to drop in fall. Give them a good watering and store the container in a garage or similar protected area warm enough to prevent the roots from freezing.

~Melissa the Empress of Dirt ♛

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