These step-by-step instructions show how to take clematis cuttings to grow new vines. It’s a simple propagation method using softwood cuttings.
This is part of the Complete Clematis Care Guide with tips on planting, propagation, fertilizing, and more.
How to Propagate Clematis
Clematis | Genus: Clematis
Clematis Growing Guide | Woody climbing vine
- Hardiness zones 4 to 9
- Full sun 6+ hours per day
- Well-draining soil
- Pruning varies by group
- Native Species | Parts of Canada and lower 48 US
- Clematis virginiana L. (Devil’s Darning Needles, Virgin’s Bower, Old Man’s Beard)
- Clematis occidentalis (Western Blue Virginsbower)
- Invasive | Clematis terniflora (Sweet Autumn Clematis Virginsbower)
Shop Online: Buy clematis vine plants at Naturehills.com (US shipping)
Once you fall in love with these beautiful flowering perennial vines, you’ll want a lot of them. That’s what got me into propagating new plants from the ones I have.
There are several ways to propagate clematis:
- Grow clematis from seed (which is very slow process taking up to 3 years for germination).
- Divide and transplant mature plants (great if you have them).
- Layering (stem of a living vine is pinned to the ground until it establishes strong roots).
- Grafting (not considered the best way to grow clematis).
- Growing new plant from cuttings (quick and easy but not all will root).
Besides division, learning how to take clematis cuttings is the easiest. It can be hit and miss: some batches all root, some won’t at all. But it is definitely worth trying if you enjoy plant propagation and want more free plants.
Can I root a clematis cutting in water? The short answer is no.
For successful propagation, root the cutting in potting mix as shown below.
- When to Take Cuttings
- How to Choose a Clematis Cutting
- Steps for Propagating Clematis Cuttings
- Frequently-Asked Questions
- Recommended Resources
About Plant Patents
Some plants are patented and asexual reproduction is not permitted without permission from the patent holder. Patents and trademarks are usually listed on plant tags.
When to Take Clematis Cuttings
It is possible to grow from stem cuttings from late spring until the end of summer.
These cuttings are called by different names depending on the maturity:
- Spring: softwood
- Summer: semi-ripe
- Late summer: ripe
- Autumn: hardwood
I have the best success with late spring and early summer, probably because, once the cutting is rooted, it’s still summer and there’s warmth, humidity, light, and time to nurture them.
However, the younger (newer, greener) the cutting, the more tender it is. Cuttings later in the season are tougher but slower to root. There’s benefits to both!
Like any propagation method, it never has a 100 percent success rate. I usually prepare about 10 or 12 pieces, originating from about 3 long cuttings, and end up with 3 to 6 plants to be planted in the garden. Some will carry on for years, just as we hope, others may die off or get the dreaded clematis wilt at some point.
But, much like seeds, there’s not much effort needed to start many so you can end up with—we hope—several.
If you want to try growing other plants from cuttings, When to Take Plant Cuttings has a printable list naming plants by season.
Empress of Dirt
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How to Choose a Clematis Cutting
This is for softwood cuttings in late spring or early summer.
- Choose an established vine (two years or older) to take cuttings from.
- Be sure it’s not an invasive variety. Sweet Autumn is a troublemaker in many growing zones.
- The best growth to cut is not the super fine new green growth of spring, but a few weeks or more into the growing season as they start to thicken.
They are not yet tough and nowhere near woody, but neither are they the super fine tendrils of first growth.
- Do not choose stems with buds or flowers.
Steps for Propagating Clematis Cuttings
- Two-year old+ clematis vine.
- Plastic bag with warm, damp paper towel.
- 3″ pot with good quality potting soil.
- Drip tray to hold the pots.
- Rooting hormone and small dish to pour it in.
- Fine, sharp cutting knife (I like a scalpel) and cutting board.
- Rubbing alcohol to clean your blade.
- Plastic Ziplock bags (food bags) large enough to cover each pot without touching the cutting.
- Chopsticks or similar item to support Ziplock bags.
Scalpels work great for fine plant cuttings.
Before you take your cutting, read all the steps and have your supplies ready.
You need to do all these steps immediately after taking the cuttings, otherwise the stem will die.
- Decide how many cuttings you want to prepare and get the pots ready.
- Place potting mix in 3-inch pots, water thoroughly, top up with mix, and water again.
- Set pots on a drip tray and have a chopstick and clear food bag ready for each pot.
- Clean your scalpel or fine cutting knife with rubbing alcohol.
- Have your rooting hormone and cutting board ready.
- Dampen a clean rag or paper towels with warm water and place in a plastic Ziplock bag.
2Get Your Cutting
Clematis cutting from the vine is placed in warm, damp paper towel to reduce shock.
- Go to the garden and decide which stem or stems will be your cuttings.
- If you can, find a 3-foot stem on the mother plant. It’s okay if it’s not that long, and longer is fine too. Ideally, it does not have any flowers on it.
- Examine the stem before you cut.
You’ll notice that toward the base of the plant, the stem is woodier, perhaps brown or turning brown.
The tips where new growth is occurring are the greenest parts.
We’re going to take a long piece of stem and then divide it into several cuttings (and, we hope, several new plants).
- Don’t take your cutting unless you are ready to get them potted right away.
- To take the cutting, cut just above a leaf joint (the part of the stem where two leaves grow from).
- Immediately place the cut end between warm, damp paper towels, and place that end in the bag. We’re trying to reduce the shock to the cutting.
3Prepare Cutting for Planting
- Cut the shoot in the 3 locations shown below.
- Clean your scalpel (or fine cutting knife) again before proceeding. Otherwise, it’s way too easy to spread disease.
I show a knife in the photo because I couldn’t find my favorite scalpel when I was taking the photo.
- Place the cutting on a cutting board.
- Put the top of the vine (the green end) at the top of the cutting board.
- Start at the first leaf joint from the bottom.
- Cut 1-inch ABOVE the leaf joint (#1 in the image above).
- Cut OFF the leaf on the left side (#2 in the image above).
- Cut 2-inches BELOW the leaf joint (#3 in the image above).
That’s your first piece for propagation.
You can usually get several pieces like this one from a 3-foot piece of vine but don’t use the very green tips – they’re too young to grow roots.
BONUS CUT – Ignore this next part if it seems too complicated:
You can actually use both leaves (instead of cutting one off), if the stem is wide enough to split down the middle with a knife (cut down the middle from A to B).
If this is overwhelming, just move on to step 4.
4Rooting Hormone and Planting
New to this? Read Rooting Hormone 101 here.
- Place small amount of rooting hormone in clean dish, dip stem in powder, tap off excess.
To avoid contamination, avoid dipping directly in the rooting hormone container.
- Use a dibber (or chopstick) to make an insertion hole in the potting mix for each cutting. After adding rooting hormone, place the cuttings in potting soil.
- Insert cutting into 3″ pot (with potting soil), leaning it against the inner side of the pot.
- Cover stem (the part with rooting hormone on it) with potting soil, pressing lightly to remove any air pockets. This means the section with rooting hormone is submerged in the potting mix.
- You can put 4 of these prepared cuttings in one pot: one against each inner side.
- I had you water the soil when you prepared the pots, but do it again if needed.
- The growing medium should be damp enough to stay in ball if you squeezed a handful, but not so wet that it drips water.
6Cover if Air is Dry
You only need to cover your cuttings if your air is dry (not humid) and there is risk of the cuttings drying out.
Otherwise, just keep them in a warm spot out of direct sun.
- Cover with Ziplock bags, supported with chopsticks to hold it higher than the cuttings.
The bag is intended to keep warmth and moisture in, but you still need air circulation.
- Don’t let the bag touch the cutting.
- Make sure contents remain moist and do not dry out.
- Check your plants every day to ensure moisture is consistent (not too much, not too little) and it’s not too musty or mold and mildew may form.
New Roots Forming
- In approximately 2-4 weeks, you should see new roots forming. That’s when it’s time to put the plants in individual pots.
- The simplest way to test for new root growth is to look at the holes in the bottom of the pot and see if anything is growing there.
- Alternately, very gently pull on the plant from the base near the soil. If you feel the roots are ‘grabbing’ the soil (i.e. there is some resistance to your pull), that’s a good sign. Any new growth above soil level also indicates the plant is growing as desired.
There are several options depending on the time of year and how patient you want to be.
Plant in Ground
- If your new plant is growing nicely and you have at least 6 to 8 weeks before your first frost, you can plant it in the ground.
- This is just like purchasing a young clematis vine from a local plant nursery. Follow the same instructions they would provide.
Grow in Pots
- I prefer to continue growing the cuttings outdoors in pots until they are really well-established. This can take a year or two.
- During the cold months, “overwinter” the pot by keeping it in a protected but cool place that stays above freezing. Set a reminder on your phone to check monthly to see if the potting mix needs watering. This explains more on how to overwinter plants.
Should I cut back my newly propagated clematis?
I am not sure there is a right or wrong answer to this.
As far as I know, no trimming is required when propagating a new clematis plant from a cutting. It’s normal for the cutting to be tender and stringy at first.
If any brown, dead parts form, yes, remove them. But, other than that, clematis are fairly slow growers and likely need whatever small amounts of stems and leaves they have for photosynthesis.
Commercial growers certainly have methods for producing new plants for market based on the specific variety and its habits. You could check if that information is available if it interests you.
Typically, as the plant grows, new stems and leaves form and the main stem gradually becomes woody, able to withstand life in a four-season climate.
Pruning comes later, after at least a season of flowering—if (and only if) your variety is in a group that needs it.
And that’s it! I hope you’ll give it a try. You may find some cuttings just won’t root, so try more than you need. This is much like seed germination: most will sprout, but there’s often a few stubborn ones in the group.
Also, there are a few ways to do these cuttings. If you love this stuff, get a good illustrated book on propagation to learn more methods for a variety of plants.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes, you can grow clematis from stem cuttings. In the tutorial here we are taking softwood cuttings in late spring or early summer while the stems are still green and not yet woody.
It is also possible to grow some clematis from hardwood cuttings taken either in fall or early spring.
For best advice, look up your specific variety to learn the best timing and methods.
The best time to take cuttings is in late spring or early summer while the clematis is actively growing, not flowering, and the stem is not yet woody.
Morning is the best time of day to take cuttings: It’s the time of day when plants peak in hydration. We want the plant in good condition to take a cutting.+
It is also possible to propagate clematis cuttings in late summer and early fall. These are known as “hardwood” cuttings and slower to grow and less likely to succeed.
To take a cutting from a clematis vine, select a long stem from the plant that does not have buds or flowers. It should have several leaves in pairs along the length.
As soon as the cutting is taken, just above a leaf node, the cut end should be placed in warm water or warm, damp paper towels immediately to maintain hydration.
To root the cutting, it is reduced to smaller sections that are dabbed In rooting hormone and placed in moist potting mix.
No, clematis does not seem to like rooting in water. Any reports of it working say it takes many months—if it happens at all—and the plant is unlikely to survive transplanting.
If you have success with it, I would love to hear about it.
Some plants start to root in water but the roots are not functional and fail once they are planted in soil.
A good hint is to find out how plant nurseries do their propagation. When your income depends on success, they often use the most efficient methods.
How long it takes for clematis cuttings to form roots varies but in general, a softwood cutting takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Some batches will all root, some won’t at all, and for others just a few root. Do not give up after one try.
Yes, clematis cuttings need light to form roots. The plant continues to photosynthesize through its leaves during the propagation process.
Provide indirect light and avoid hot, direct sun otherwise the cuttings will turn brown and rot. High and very low humidity can also cause rot.
I think this is why it’s so rewarding when the cuttings do succeed: it’s a bit of a challenge sometimes.
~Melissa the Empress of Dirt ♛
How to Propagate Clematis Cuttings
Supplies & Materials
- 1 Clematis vine cutting softwood, no buds or flowers
- 6 3-inch Flower pots
- 1 Drip tray for flower pots
- 1 bag Potting Mix
- 6 Plastic bags
- 1 Paper towel, damp
- 1 Scalpel to slice cutting
- 1 Rubbing alcohol to clean cutting blade
- 1 Cutting board
- 1 Rooting hormone powder
- 12" chopsticks to hold up plastic bags over pots
- Take cuttings in late spring or early summer. Early morning is best.
- Not all cuttings will root. Always do some extras just in case.
- Fill six 3-inches flower pots with potting mix and water thoroughly. Top up with potting mix if needed.
- Have clean scalpel, rooting hormone, cutting board, plastic bags ready in work area.
- Place warm, damp paper towel in plastic bag.
- Do not choose stems with buds or flowers. Vine should be at least two years old.
- Select a long (3-foot) stem without any buds or flowers. Cut just above a leaf joint.
- Immediately place cut end between damp paper towels in bag.
Prepare Cutting for Rooting
- Each stem has a tip and bottom that leads to the main plant. You will be cutting your cutting into smaller sections and planting the stem bottoms of each new piece in potting mix.
- With a clean scalpel, slice cutting as shown in diagram. First cut is one inch above a leaf joint, second cut removes one leaf stem, 3rd cut is two inches below leaf joint.
- Dip stem bottom in dish of rooting hormone powder, tap off excess, and insert stem into potting mix against inside of pot.
- Repeat placing up to four cuttings in each pot.
Add Bag Greenhouses
- If air is dry, loosely cover cuttings with plastic bags but allow air flow in and out. I prop them up with chopsticks. Do not let bag touch cuttings.
- Place out of direct sun in warm spot with indirect light.
- Check plants daily and water as needed: soil should be moist but not damp.
- Roots should form in 2-4 weeks.
- Continue growing and move to larger pot as needed. Add to garden by late summer.