You can grow new plants from softwood cuttings (young stems) from many perennials including shrubs and bushes in your garden. Spring and summer are prime time for rooting these cuttings. Use these step-by-step instructions to propagate more of your favorite plants.
In late fall and winter, you can root older growth: How to Grow Plants from Hardwood Cuttings.
Softwood Cutting Propagation
What is a softwood cutting?
A softwood cutting is a piece of plant stem taken from a woody shrub or bush during a particular growth phase.
This is how new plant stems change from spring to fall:
- Herbaceous (young, green growth in spring)
- Softwood (starting to toughen up)
- Semi-ripe or semi-hardwood
- Hardwood (late summer and fall)
After the spring herbaceous stage, new plant stems begin to toughen up and that’s the softwood stage.
Cuttings can be rooted at every stage of active plant growth, offering different pros and cons in each phase.
Softwood cuttings are a good choice because the stem is not too young and prone to drying out yet not as tough and slow-growing as a hardwood cutting.
Also, the propagation method (below) is fairly universal: once you learn it, you can do the same thing with countless plants—not just shrubs. Cool, right?
Related: 5 Basic Plant Propagation Methods
How to Identify the Softwood Stage
To select softwood shoots for cuttings, try the bending test.
In spring or summer:
• New growth is too green and will bend but not break.
• Softwood will usually snap when bent. This is just right.
• Hardwood is too woody to snap.
But don’t let this test get in your way: it’s not foolproof. If you’re ready to go, just take cuttings and go for it. As mentioned, they can root at any stage: softwood is just one option.
Depending on the plant, apical (main) shoots or lateral (side) shoots work. Use what looks good and take extras because propagation does not come with guarantees. Some, all, or none may root even if you’re doing everything right.
Plants to Grow From Softwood Cuttings
Mid-Spring to Early Summer | After Last Frost
Take cuttings from new growth that is starting to toughen.
Beware that any plants you propagate are not on your local invasive species list.
Here are some suggestions (there’s lots more than I’ve listed here).
- Coleus Soenostemon
- Clematis Clematis
- Dogwood Cornus
- Elderberry Sambucus
- Forsythia Forsythia
- Fuchsia Fuchsia
- Gardenia Gardenia
- Geranium Pelagonium
- Hibiscus Hibiscus rosa-sinensis
- Hydrangea Hydrangea
*Some are invasive in parts of North America.
Summer Semi-Ripe Cuttings
Take cuttings on maturing stems (base is hard, tip is soft) in late summer.
- Boxwood Buxus
- Butterfly bush Buddleia *
- Cherry laurel Lauraceae
- Coleus Soenostemon
- Escallonia Escallonia
- Evergreen shrubs
- Geranium Pelargonium
- Dead-nettles Lamium
- Herbs: bay, hyssop, lavender, rosemary, rue, sage, thyme
- Holly Ilex
- Honeysuckle Lonicera*
- Ivy
- Lavender Lavandula
- Mallows Lavatera
- Mock orange Philadelphus
- Passion flower Passifloraceae
- Privet Ligustrum
- Firethorn Pyracantha
- Solanum
- Spirea Caryopteris
- Star Jasmine Trachelospermum
- Viburnum
*Some are invasive in parts of North America.
Recommended Resources
These are some of my favorite books on plant propagation. They have photo tutorials for growing plants from a variety of methods. Once you know the basics, it’s super fun and addictive.
Grow Your Own Garden by Carol Klein was the first one I bought and still the one I refer to most.
AHS Plant Propagation
Amazon
Grow Your Own Garden
Amazon or here: Amazon.co.uk
Also:
- Plant Parenting by Leslie Halleck
- Plant Propagator’s Bible by Miranda Smith
How to Take Softwood Cuttings
This is a generalized version of what I do for all types of cuttings from softwood to hardwood.
You’ll notice lots of variation between gardeners but ultimately if enough of the growing conditions are met, we all succeed.
Also, because some cuttings just won’t root, always take more than you need.
Supplies
- Potting mix, soil-less
- 6-8″ flower pot (clay or plastic) | plastic works best
- Rooting hormone powder (optional)
- Garden snippers
- Scalpel or sharp, clean knife
- Plastic food bag and damp paper towel
- Softwood cuttings (6 per pot)
1Prepare Pot for Planting
- Have your flower pot and organic soil-less potting mix ready.
- Water potting mix thoroughly and top up as needed.
2Take Cutting from Donor Plant
- Obtain your cutting in the morning, if possible, when stems are fully hydrated.
- Choose a new growth stem (from the current growing season) that does not have any buds or flowers.
- Use a sharp, clean knife and cut just above a leaf node.
- Be careful never to crush or squeeze the stems.
- Wrap cutting in damp paper towel and place in plastic bag or bin until next step.
- You can root up to 6 cuttings in one pot, so get a bunch of them.
3Remove Lower Leaves
- Remove lower leaves.
4Trim Stem
- Trim stem directly below leaf nodes (where you just removed the lower leaves).
5Apply Rooting Hormone
At this stage in a plant’s growth, rooting hormone is generally not needed unless the stem is getting fairly tough or woody.
This explains when and when not to use rooting hormone.
• Place small amount of rooting hormone powder on plate.
• Dip stem in rooting hormone powder.
• Gently tap off excess.
6Plant Stem
• Push stem into potting mix, approximately 2-inches deep (up to remaining leaf stems).
• The ideal position in the pot is against the inner wall.
7Plant More
• You can fit approximately 6 cuttings around the inside of a 6-inch pot.
8Care & Growth
In the summer, I keep my cuttings on a covered patio. You could also keep them indoors near a window but never in direct sun.
Ideally, temperatures stay between 60 and 80° F (15 to 27° C) and you follow these tips:
• Keep soil moist, not soggy.
• Keep pot in a warm, sheltered location (to avoid drying out).
• Provide HIGH humidity, either by misting the cuttings twice daily or using greenhouse misting system.
• Growth rate varies by species and vigor of mother plant.
• Freshly cut stems may wilt and look rather pathetic for the first week or so. Don’t panic: with even watering, they will perk up.
• In most cases, roots form after 4-6 weeks, which means the cuttings are ready for transplanting into individual pots.
• You may also notice new leaf growth (hooray!).
• After another month, plants should be ready for planting in the garden.
Once you see how simple it is, it’s addictive!
Frequently Asked Questions
1What is a softwood cutting?
It’s a plant cutting taken at a particular growth stage of a woody shrub or bush.
When plants start growing in spring, the new shoots start out tender and green—that’s the herbaceous stage.
Next, as they begin to toughen, it’s the softwood stage.
From there it’s summer and the stems are semi-ripe or semi-hardwood, depending on who’s naming it.
By fall, the shoots are woody and that’s the hardwood stage.
The same propagation method shown here works on other perennials as well, not just shrubs.
2How long does it take softwood cuttings to root?
In most cases, if the conditions are favorable (see the care tips), softwood cuttings should have good roots in 4-6 weeks.
3What are the easiest shrubs to propagate?
It’s all about growing conditions. I’ve not found that one plant does better than another.
It all comes down to getting a healthy cutting from the current year’s growth and providing the right propagation environment with moist soil and high humidity.
4Can I propagate cuttings from trees?
I have not read a lot about this but, from what I understand, most tree species are difficult to root, which is why grafting is the favored method, but there are some exceptions such as certain elm and birch varieties that can be rooted.
Good luck with your plant propagation and be sure to sign up for the free Empress of Dirt newsletter for fresh tips every two weeks.
~Melissa the Empress of Dirt ♛
How to Root Softwood Cuttings
Supplies & Materials
- 6 Softwood cuttings per pot
Instructions
Prepare Pot for Planting
- Have your flower pot and organic soil-less potting mix ready.Water potting mix thoroughly and top up as needed.
Take Cutting from Donor Plant
- Obtain your cutting in the morning, if possible, when stems are fully hydrated.Use a sharp, clean knife and cut just above a leaf node.Choose a new growth stem (from the current growing season) that does not have any buds or flowers. Be careful never to crush or squeeze the stems.Wrap cutting in damp paper towel and place in plastic bag or bin until next step.You can root up to 6 cuttings in one pot, so get a bunch of them.
Remove Lower Leaves
- Remove each leaf and its stem.
Trim Stem
- Trim stem directly below leaf nodes (where you just removed the lower leaves).
Apply Rooting Hormone
- Only use rooting hormone if your cutting is tough or woody. Place small amount of rooting hormone powder on plate.Dip stem in rooting hormone powder.Gently tap off excess.
Plant Stem
- Push stem into potting mix, approximately 2-inches deep (up to remaining leaf stems).The ideal position in the pot is against the inner wall.
Plant More
- You can fit approximately 6 cuttings around the inside of a 6-inch pot.
Care & Growth
- Keep soil moist, not soggy.Keep pot in a warm, sheltered location (to avoid drying out).Provide humidity, either by misting the cuttings twice daily or using greenhouse misting system.Growth rate varies by species and vigor of mother plant.Freshly-cut stems may wilt and look rather pathetic for the first week or so. Don't panic: with even watering, they will perk up. In most cases, roots form after 4-6 weeks, which means the cuttings are ready for transplanting into individual pots.You may also notice new leaf growth (hooray!).After another month, plants should be ready for planting in the garden.