You can grow new plants from softwood cuttings (young stems) from many perennials including shrubs and bushes in your garden. Spring and summer are prime time for rooting these cuttings. Use these step-by-step instructions to propagate more of your favorite plants.
In late fall and winter, you can root older growth: How to Grow Plants from Hardwood Cuttings.
Softwood Cutting Propagation
This walks you through everything you need to know to start growing softwood cuttings. I’ll show you what they are, when to take them, list examples of plants you can try this on, and provide step-by-step instructions. Once you see how it’s done, you can use the same skill for propagating countless other plants.
Contents
- What is a Softwood Cutting?
- How to Identify the Softwood Stage
- Plants to Grow From Softwood Cuttings
- How to Take Softwood Cuttings
- Frequently-Asked Questions
- Resources
What is a Softwood Cutting?
A softwood cutting is a piece of plant stem taken from a woody shrub or bush during a particular growth phase.
This is how new plant stems change from spring to fall:
- Herbaceous (young, green growth in spring)
- Softwood (starting to toughen up)
- Semi-ripe or semi-hardwood
- Hardwood (late summer and fall)
After the spring herbaceous stage, new plant stems begin to toughen up and that’s the softwood stage.
Cuttings can be rooted at every stage of active plant growth, offering different pros and cons in each phase.
Softwood cuttings are a good choice because the stem is not too young and prone to drying out yet not as tough and slow-growing as a hardwood cutting.
Also, the propagation method (below) is fairly universal: once you learn it, you can do the same thing with countless plants—not just shrubs. Cool, right?
Related: 5 Basic Plant Propagation Methods
Plant Patents: Some plants are patented and asexual reproduction is not permitted without permission from the patent holder. Patents and trademarks are listed on plant tags.
How to Identify the Softwood Stage
To select softwood shoots for cuttings, try the bending test.
In spring or summer:
• New growth is too green and will bend but not break.
• Softwood will usually snap when bent. This is just right.
• Hardwood is too woody to snap.
But don’t let this test get in your way: it’s not foolproof. If you’re ready to go, just take cuttings and go for it. As mentioned, they can root at any stage: softwood is just one option.
Depending on the plant, apical (main) shoots or lateral (side) shoots work. Use what looks good and take extras because propagation does not come with guarantees. Some, all, or none may root even if you’re doing everything right.
Plants to Grow From Softwood Cuttings
Spring
Mid-Spring to Early Summer | After Last Frost
Take cuttings from new growth that is starting to toughen.
Beware that any plants you propagate are not on your local invasive species list.
Here are some suggestions (there’s lots more than I’ve listed here).
- Coleus Soenostemon
- Clematis Clematis
- Dogwood Cornus
- Elderberry Sambucus
- Forsythia Forsythia
- Fuchsia Fuchsia
- Gardenia Gardenia
- Geranium Pelagonium
- Hibiscus Hibiscus rosa-sinensis
- Hydrangea Hydrangea
*Some are invasive in parts of North America.
Related: Handy Garden Checklist: What To Do In Spring
Summer
Summer Semi-Ripe Cuttings
Take cuttings on maturing stems (base is hard, tip is soft) in late summer.
- Boxwood Buxus
- Butterfly bush Buddleia *
- Cherry laurel Lauraceae
- Coleus Soenostemon
- Escallonia Escallonia
- Evergreen shrubs
- Geranium Pelargonium
- Dead-nettles Lamium*
- Herbs: bay, hyssop, lavender, rosemary, rue, sage, thyme
- Holly Ilex
- Honeysuckle Lonicera*
- Ivy
- Lavender Lavandula
- Mallows Lavatera
- Mock orange Philadelphus
- Passion flower Passifloraceae
- Privet Ligustrum – – can be invasive in natural areas: check for your region.
- Firethorn Pyracantha
- Solanum
- Spirea Caryopteris
- Star Jasmine Trachelospermum
- Viburnum
*Some are invasive in parts of North America.
Related: Handy Garden Checklist: What To Do In Summer
How to Take Softwood Cuttings
This is a generalized version of what I do for all types of cuttings from softwood to hardwood.
You’ll notice lots of variation between gardeners but ultimately if enough of the growing conditions are met, we all succeed.
Also, because some cuttings just won’t root, always take more than you need.
Supplies
- Potting mix, soil-less
- 6-8″ flower pot (clay or plastic) | plastic works best
- Rooting hormone powder (optional)
- Garden snippers
- Scalpel or sharp, clean knife
- Plastic food bag and damp paper towel
- Softwood cuttings (6 per pot)
Steps
1Prepare Pot for Planting
- Have your flower pot and organic soil-less potting mix ready.
- Water potting mix thoroughly and top up as needed.
2Take Cutting from Donor Plant
- Obtain your cutting in the morning, if possible, when stems are fully hydrated.
- Choose a new growth stem (from the current growing season) that does not have any buds or flowers.
- Use a sharp, clean knife and cut just above a leaf node.
- Be careful never to crush or squeeze the stems.
- Wrap cutting in damp paper towel and place in plastic bag or bin until next step.
- You can root up to 6 cuttings in one pot, so get a bunch of them.
3Remove Lower Leaves
- Remove lower leaves.
4Trim Stem
- Trim stem directly below leaf nodes (where you just removed the lower leaves).
5Apply Rooting Hormone
At this stage in a plant’s growth, rooting hormone is generally not needed unless the stem is getting fairly tough or woody.
This explains when and when not to use rooting hormone.
• Place small amount of rooting hormone powder on plate.
• Dip stem in rooting hormone powder.
• Gently tap off excess.
6Plant Stem
• Push stem into potting mix, approximately 2-inches deep (up to remaining leaf stems).
• The ideal position in the pot is against the inner wall.
7Plant More
• You can fit approximately 6 cuttings around the inside of a 6-inch pot.
8Care & Growth
In the summer, I keep my cuttings on a covered patio. You could also keep them indoors near a window but never in direct sun.
Softwood cuttings rely on photosynthesis for energy.
Ideally, temperatures stay between 60 and 80° F (15 to 27° C) and you follow these tips:
• Keep soil moist, not soggy. You can use a plant mister on the foliage as desired.
• Keep pot in a warm, sheltered location (to avoid drying out).
• Provide high humidity. Some use a greenhouse misting system.
• Growth rate varies by species and vigor of mother plant.
• Freshly cut stems may wilt and look rather pathetic for the first week or so. Don’t panic: with even watering, they will perk up.
• In most cases, roots form after 4-6 weeks, which means the cuttings are ready for transplanting into individual pots.
• You may also notice new leaf growth (hooray!).
• After another month, plants should be ready for planting in the garden.
Once you see how simple it is, there are so many possibilities.
Frequently Asked Questions
A softwood cutting is a plant cutting taken at a particular growth stage of a woody shrub or bush.
When plants start growing in spring, the new shoots start out tender and green—that’s the herbaceous stage.
Next, as they begin to toughen, it’s the softwood stage.
From there it’s summer and the stems are semi-ripe or semi-hardwood, depending on who’s naming it.
By fall, the shoots are woody and that’s the hardwood stage.
The same propagation method shown here works on other perennials as well, not just shrubs.
In most cases, if the conditions are favorable (see the care tips), softwood cuttings should have good roots in 4 to 6 weeks.
Many shrubs are easy to propagate if the cuttings are taken during an active growth phase but not flowering, and the cutting is prepared and planted immediately.
It all comes down to getting a healthy cutting from the current year’s growth and providing the right propagation environment with moist soil and high humidity.
Most tree species are difficult to root, which is why grafting is the favored method, but there are some exceptions such as certain elm and birch varieties that can be rooted.
Resources
Propagation How-to Books
These are books I like for plant propagation tips and tutorials:
- AHS Plant Propagation | American Horticultural Associate
- Grow Your Own Garden | Carol Klein
- Plant Propagator’s Bible | Miranda Smith
Good luck with your plant propagation and be sure to sign up for the free Empress of Dirt newsletter for fresh tips every two weeks.
~Melissa the Empress of Dirt ♛
How to Root Softwood Cuttings
Equipment
Supplies & Materials
- 6 Softwood cuttings per pot
Instructions
Prepare Pot for Planting
- Have your flower pot and organic soil-less potting mix ready.Water potting mix thoroughly and top up as needed.
Take Cutting from Donor Plant
- Obtain your cutting in the morning, if possible, when stems are fully hydrated.Use a sharp, clean knife and cut just above a leaf node.Choose a new growth stem (from the current growing season) that does not have any buds or flowers. Be careful never to crush or squeeze the stems.Wrap cutting in damp paper towel and place in plastic bag or bin until next step.You can root up to 6 cuttings in one pot, so get a bunch of them.
Remove Lower Leaves
- Remove each leaf and its stem.
Trim Stem
- Trim stem directly below leaf nodes (where you just removed the lower leaves).
Apply Rooting Hormone
- Only use rooting hormone if your cutting is tough or woody. Place small amount of rooting hormone powder on plate.Dip stem in rooting hormone powder.Gently tap off excess.
Plant Stem
- Push stem into potting mix, approximately 2-inches deep (up to remaining leaf stems).The ideal position in the pot is against the inner wall.
Plant More
- You can fit approximately 6 cuttings around the inside of a 6-inch pot.
Care & Growth
- Keep soil moist, not soggy.Keep pot in a warm, sheltered location (to avoid drying out).High humidity and a greenhouse misting system can help.Growth rate varies by species and vigor of mother plant.Freshly-cut stems may wilt and look rather pathetic for the first week or so. Don't panic: with even watering, they will perk up. In most cases, roots form after 4-6 weeks, which means the cuttings are ready for transplanting into individual pots.You may also notice new leaf growth (hooray!).After another month, plants should be ready for planting in the garden.
Bonnie says
I have learned so much from your articles and save each email so I can search or refer back to them. This one is especially timely. I’ve been taking cuttings of my fi, grapes and roses. It’s so exciting to find little nubs of what might be a leaf soon, the. Return and find unfurled leaves. It took me several tries to get a start off my lemon, but it looks like I’ve got a winner on the way. Ext step is grafting and I need to read upon this before I get to excited about my starts showing progress.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and encouragement!
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Bonnie,
Once you start, a whole fun, new world opens up, doesn’t it? Glad you’re enjoying it.
Sheila says
Great tips!
Angela says
Love and so look forward to your emails. Packed with gardening info
Just loved this weeks regarding taking cuttings
Clear informative I’m off in the garden to follow your instructions
Beth Ellis says
I have a question about propagating perennials. Do you leave them outside or bring them in. If you do leave them outside, sun or shade? If inside, sunny window, or indirect sun? Thank you. Love your newsletters.
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Beth, The info is in Section 8. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Donna McKnight says
Thank you for the tutorial.In the beginning of march i started several clematis çuttings.I used a plastic bag as a greenhouse as you suggested in a different tutorial. I am happy to say the cuttings have rooted
And developed New leaves so I am the proud owner of 5 new clematis plants.Thank you for the wonderful articles and tutorials.I have passed your website on to all of my gardening friends.We’re all rooting for you!
Melissa J. Will says
Well done, Donna! And thank you. 🙂