Use these tips to ensure your Christmas, Thanksgiving, or Easter cactus thrives year-round and blooms again for the holiday season.
If you want to ID your plant, see How to Tell the Difference Between Christmas and Thanksgiving Cactus here.
Year-Round Holiday Cactus Care
Whether your plant is called a Christmas, Thanksgiving, or Easter cactus, possibly labelled as Schlumbergera or Rhipsalidopsis, they each need the same care.
If you want to identify yours, see the identification tips here.
If you want to force blooms and get the plant to flower during a specific holiday, I have provided flowering tips here. Each plant has its own genetics and inherent timing, but, with the right conditions we can encourage beautiful blooms for the holidays.
For troubleshooting problems like limp leaves, red leaves, or buds dropping off, see the Frequently Asked Questions section below.
And How to Grow Christmas Cactus Cuttings shares how to propagate for more plants by planting stem segments.
Contents
- Daily Care
- Flowering | How to Make a Christmas Cactus Bloom
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Resources
Indoor Christmas & Thanksgiving Cactus Care Tips
It’s always helpful to know the origin of a plant to better understand the best growing conditions to provide in your home.
Holiday cacti originated in the rain forests of Brazil with warmth, humidity, and indirect light, so their needs are different from desert cacti.
These epiphytic plants have aerial roots that grow attached to other trees. This tells us that they should not sit with their feet in water, as they grow high off the ground, free from standing water.
Here’s what they need.
- Light | Bright, indirect natural light. Too much light stresses the plant.
- Water | Allow potting mix to dry between watering. Empty saucer after watering.
Over-watering will stress the plant and cause buds to drop off. In most homes watering is needed every 1-3 weeks. - Air Temperature | 65-75 °F (18-23 °C) until it’s time to force into bloom.
- Soil | Use a potting medium made for cacti (Amazon)
- Root Space | Prefers to be slightly pot-bound. Repot every few years.
- Humidity | 50-60% is ideal. Plants often like it higher but your house would get moldy and higher humidity can attract pests. Despite popular advice, a tray of pebbles covered in water does not really humidify a room.
- Fertilize | A few months after flowering is done, begin using organic cactus plant food following instructions on container. Stop during budding and flowering cycles.
- Pruning | Leaf segments, which are actually modified branches called cladodes or “clades,” can be removed (and rooted as cuttings) to encourage a bushier plant. You can also remove old flower buds by hand.
Common Problems
- Wilting or limp leaves: This can be due to several different things.
Are you over-watering? Let the potting mix dry out between watering.
Under-watering? Use the finger test and water if the soil is dry one inch below surface. Also avoid placing the plant near a heat source.
Is there adequate light? Provide bright, indirect natural light unless forcing blooms.
Is the plant rootbound? There may not be enough room in the pot for the amount of water needed. Time to move it to a larger container. - Black or rotting stems: Too much water.
- Dark red or pink leaves: Can occur when light is too intense. Also when soil is too dry for an extended period of time. Water thoroughly when the soil is drying out, reaching the full depth of the soil and drain excess from saucer.
- Buds dropping before blooming: Also a sign of over-watering or extreme temperature fluctuations. Is your plant in a drafty location or have you moved it inside or outside?
- Yellow stems or leaves: Check for thrips which transmit a virus in the plant. The treatment is insecticidal soap. If it’s extensive, dispose of the plant.
- Distorted leaves: Could be an insect infestation. Check for mealybugs—they are small and white and hide where it’s dark and moist. There are suggested treatments below.
Supplies
How to Make a Christmas Cactus Bloom (Again)
Ready to Make Your Christmas Cactus Flower?
These plants are thermo-photoperiodic, meaning their blooming cycle is triggered by specific temperature and light conditions.
Assuming your plant hasn’t already bloomed in the past six months, two months before desired bloom time, move to an indoor space and provide these conditions:
- 12-14 hours of darkness every 24 hours; moderate light for rest of time. Be mindful of streetlights and other light sources: it’s all light to the plant.
- Temperature range: 50-65°F (10-15°C).
If room is not cool enough, increase darkness time to compensate. - Water less frequently than normal.
Buds will gradually form and then flower.
At this stage, gradually increase light and temperatures going back to normal care routine.
Over-watering can cause buds to drop, so error on the side of caution and allow soil to dry between watering.
Frequently Asked Questions
Here’s some possible reasons:
Sudden change in temperature. These guys like temperatures to remain steady in their comfort range.
Over-watering causes stem and root rot, which can, in turn, cut off water to rest of plant and cause bud drop.
Low humidity can cause bud drop.
Pests are not common but mealybugs and soft brown scale can also cause bud drop.
Over-watering is a common cause. If your soil is moist, let it dry before watering again and reduce your watering schedule.
Root bound: if your plant has not been repotted in several years, it may be time to move up a pot size. I have one Christmas cactus that is over forty years old and having limp leaves is normal for a plant this old with a huge, compacted root system.
Watering always depends on the unique conditions within your home, but, in general, holiday cacti can be watered every 1-3 weeks.
Check the soil with your finger tip or a moisture meter and water when it’s near dry.
Yes, if you live somewhere with the right weather conditions. Avoid direct sun, provide indirect light, and temperatures in the range of 65-75 °F (18-23 °C) are ideal.
In some locations, the transition into fall weather provides just what the plant needs to begin budding and then flowering indoors.
You can’t really prolong blooming beyond what is natural for the plant, but you can make efforts to prevent shortening it.
Water carefully, leaning toward under— and never over—watering.
Keep the plant away from temperature swings (drafty windows, forced air heat).
Keep the plant out of direct light.
Do not fertilize during flowering time.
This will depend on what caused your plant to struggle.
Read over the basic care tips and figure out what was missing.
If there are not pests or diseases present, you may be able to revive the plant by providing basic, consistent care (without over-doing it).
Other times, just parts of the plant are worth saving. In that case, take stem cuttings and root them in soil.
Often a Christmas cactus will bloom twice within a few months but that’s it for a year.
After the second flowering can be a good time to prune the plant if it needs some assistance to achieve a healthier, more pleasing shape.
Any healthy stems you remove can be rooted for new plants.
No, these plants originate as jungle plants which means they like indirect light, warmth, and humidity, but never wet roots.
Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti in the Schlumbergera family often flower twice: first between October and February, and then between March and May.
Sometimes the conditions in our homes are favorable for budding and flowering, other times we may have to assist the plant with these tips.
A second flowering session may also occur naturally (if conditions are again favorable), or the plant may need encouragement after first flowering is done.
When all flowering is done, it’s time to begin fertilizing for six months to add nutrients for future blooms. Use organic cactus food and follow the instructions on the product label.
This may be mealybugs (Pseudococcidae family), a soft-bodied wingless insect that gathers in the joints of plants as well as the soil. They are essentially sap-suckers that release gooey honeydew, drying out and eventually killing your plant.
There are three main steps to get rid of them.
First, isolate your plant from other houseplants so you do not spread them while treating them.
Remove all visible bugs or goo. Use a swab dipped in 70% rubbing alcohol and apply directly to the bugs.
Spray all foliage with rubbing alcohol. Check all nooks and crannies: these guys are sneaky.
Gently wash plant and repot in disinfected pot with new potting mix.
If any reappear, nab them immediately with rubbing alcohol.
Long-term care may require neem oil spray or another plant spray made for this purpose. This explains what neem oil does to insects outdoors.
It is not unusual for an older Christmas cactus to drop leaf stem (their branches or “clades”) or appear somewhat limp at various parts of its growth cycle but newer, younger plants should be very green and perky.
If yours has limp leaves for an extended period of time or you find the buds fall off before the plant blooms, over-watering is the most likely cause.
The plant may also be unhealthy for other reasons.
Look for any signs of insects, disease, or distress.
The plant should be robust, deep green in color, soil should be moist (press your finger tip in to check) and free of mold.
If you find anything suspicious, isolate your plant from other houseplants and investigate the problem. Some things are harmless, others can spread to your other plants.
Many years! With proper, consistent care, a holiday cactus can last for decades. There are plants that have been passed through generations for 30, 40, or 50 years.
Resources
Free Tip Sheet
More Holiday Cactus Tips
Good luck with your holiday cactus. And remember to put a reminders in your calendar to remember to force blooms (two months ahead) and begin fertilizing (after flowering is done).
~Melissa the Empress of Dirt ♛
Christmas Cactus Care Tips
Supplies & Materials
- 1 Christmas cactus plant
Instructions
- Plant in potting mix made for cacti with roots slightly root bound.
- Provide bright, indirect, natural light.
- Allow potting mix to dry between watering.
- Air temperature should be 65-75°F (18-23°C) when flowering.
- To force blooms, keep plant at 50-65°F (10-15°C) for two months with 12 to 14 hours of darkness a day.
- Humidity at 50 to 60% is ideal. Plants often like it higher but your house would get moldy.
- Fertilize with organic cactus plant food a few months after flowering. Stop during budding and flowering cycles.
- Leaf segments (the branches also known as "clades") can be rooted as cuttings in water or potting mix.
Notes
Christine Garrett says
Great advice thank you so much
How should I clean the leaves/clads/stems? I have used milk on them before
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Christine,
I mist the leaves with water and use a small microfiber cloth to remove dust.
Cheryl says
Squirrels chewed off the branches of my Christmas cactus this summer while it was outdoors. I brought it back inside with just stubs (yes, I was very sad, this was from my mom’s funeral several years ago). It is growing again, but, I would like to give it a nice shape since I am starting from almost a new beginning. How do I do this without killing it?
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Cheryl,
I would leave it alone for about a year to let it recover. This way you’ll be able to tell how it plans to grow. Then you can make executive decisions about any shaping needed. You shape just by removing a section of leaf at a joint (using your fingers). Anything you remove can be propagated in water or potting mix to grow a new plant. Cheers,
Marge says
All your info is very much appreciated. I live in AZ where it’s of course very dry. Is it okay if I must my cactus twice a day? I don’t want to get a humidifier.
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Marge, Yes, anything to keep some humidity present sounds like a good idea.
Helen Williams says
I bought my cactus at a grocery store. Do I need to report immediately or not?
Melissa J. Will says
Hi Helen,
They are usually fine in the container they came in for some time. Do remove any foil wrapper (or make holes in it) to allow water to drain freely.